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***jasondbaker*** · 12-23-2003, 06:47 PM,

Tell me more about doubling the 80's. Does this use the same manifold as the 95s/130s/etc? I assume the bands are a different size. What is the cost difference between doubling 80s and 130s?

What kind of dives are you guys taking these on? I've been thinking about putting together a set of doubles (faber 108s) but I am concerned about weight.

***LKunze*** · 12-23-2003, 08:10 PM,

Jason, PST makes a new tank in the E-Series line called the E7-100. It is like the old PST LP 80 but has the higher pressure rating like the E8-130 that allows the tank to be filled to 100 cu. ft. at 3442 psi. I bet that would make a sweet set of doubles.

Vtach · 12-23-2003, 08:19 PM,

I believe that most of the manifolds selling right now will adjust for either 7.25" (steel/alum 80) or 8.00" (steel 95 or 104). Bands on the other hand should be tank specific. If you have the wrong size bands it may significantly stress the manifold and cause a catastrophic failure (worst case scenario). Highland millwork has some good information about bands, manifolds and doubles setups.

The only real cost difference between a double set of 80's or 130's is probably the price difference of the tanks. You can find PST 80's around brand new for around $150 each. PST 130's on the other hand, are running around $250-$300 each new. I have gotten pretty comfortable with diving double tanks and I have been diving my double 119's on all my dives since I went to a DIR setup. But they are HEAVY!! I plan on getting the 80's for most dives and using the 119's for Trimix. The double 80's will be more than enough for most dives and I hear that they are VERY comfortable both in and out of the water. If you do plan on larger size tanks, I would lean toward the PST E8 130 (old LP 104). The do not weigh significantly more than the E8 119's but are a bit longer and more balanced than the 119's, not to mention a bit more gas volume.

Todd

***LKunze*** · 12-23-2003, 08:51 PM,

Todd, where do you find PST tanks that cheap? ??? Everywhere I've looked the E7-100's are like $300 and the E8-130's are like $331.

Vtach · 12-23-2003, 09:14 PM,

The last time I talked to Bob from DivePoint Scuba he was selling the PST LP80 (not the E7) for $159. He is selling steel 119's for $229 and steel 130's for $249. Judging by the cu ft of those cylinders, the 119's and 130's are the E8 cylinders. I'd call and find out for sure though. Check it out for yourself here, click on "Christmas sale":

I also talked with Gert from DeepBlue and he was right in the same price range for the PST LP80. I'm not sure about his other tank prices though. Hope that helps.

Todd

FreediveWI · 12-23-2003, 09:20 PM,

I've used double 112's in the past, and while it was reasuring to have all that extra gas, it just wasn't nessecary. Double 80's are great for 20 minute dives down to 250', if you are using stages for your deco gas and not trying to do it all on air. They are also a lot easier on your back for normal dives.

In the past I justified double 112's becasue I could get two deep dives out of them, now I just do my first dive on a almuminum 80 stage bottle full of mix and use the doubles to fill the Bc, and for bailout. On the next dive I can either bring along another stage or switch to the gas in my back tanks. THis method is a lot easier on my back and aluminum 80's are a lot cheaper than buying an extra set of doubles. Since they are aluminum you stack a whole bunch up under your left arm, and on your left hip, without hardly noticing it that much.

I am sure the Gert will chime in here pretty soon about how he did the mixing for his Gunilda trip. THe largest tanks he used were 95's. Other friends of mine who went did 270' for 20 on double 85's without any compirmises of saftey. I was invited but too short on cash to make it. :'( Another reason to embrace freediving. Wink

Jon

***LKunze*** · 12-23-2003, 09:30 PM,

Thanks, I'll check that out. I'd like to have another tank for single tank diving next year. I don't dive doubles yet and most likely won't next year either. I've been using a couple OMS 85's for the past couple years and they seem fine except for the fact that I usually always get crappy fills from dive shops. I hardly ever get the full 2640 psi so my next tank purchase is going to be a bigger tank so I get a little more bottom time on deeper dives. Jason B always beats me on air consumption with his AL80's so I need more gas, LOL!

**Chris H** · (This post was last modified: 12-23-2003, 11:32 PM by Chris H.)

Jon answered the question about the versatility of the 80s. Gert also mentioned his fondness for these tanks and they have done more tech diving than I could dream of.

I'm using the same manifold (Scubapro) on my 80s that Todd has on his E8-119s. Like todd said, I think they are fairly universal.

I like the 80s because I can actually move when I am out of the water. There is plenty of air, and you have complete redundancy if you have a failure. Bob at Divepoint has some of the best prices and by far the largest inventory of any shop I've been to.

I wear a 6 pound V weight with my double 80s and a SS backplate. I love not having a weight belt. This is with a drysuit and the whole nine yards. Todd wears no extra weight with the double 120s and could probably get by with an aluminum backplate. We both have Bare ATR-HD drysuits and similar gear configuration other than that.

Vtach · 12-24-2003, 06:27 AM,

I am actually a bit overweighted with my double 119's and SS BP. Chris is right, I will be trying out a Alum BP and then doing the "empty tank" test and reevaluate my bouyancy. If that does not take enough weight off I guess that I'm going to have get the grinder out and take some metal off of those tanks. ;D

Todd

WIdiver_Paul · (This post was last modified: 01-22-2004, 07:47 AM by WIdiver_Paul.)

I'm curious if anyone else has any thoughts on spg choice and configuration on their DIR setup: I initially had an OMS mini spg, with no cover, of course, per DIR spec. But after cracking the glass and waiting over 3 months for it to come back from warranty, i've decided to put the rubber console back on it, but with some modifications to it to try to make it DIR. Technically having one at all is DIW, but I want you to tell me why it's not DIR?

Thanks for your opinions.

The flange on the boot has been cut away to expose the swage and HP connectors to check for tightness and air bubbles. Also the little plastic connector "triangle" has been removed to eliminate snag hazards. It's not loose and should minimize impacts on the edge of the casing.

DIR or DIW?